Salam kepada sumer puteranian..

maser aku taip nie bru jer aku nyer cpu meletup..
lepas aku check aper yg rosak..rupernyer aku nyer power suplly berbau hangit..
peh...sedih giler..biler mender rosak nie ar aku terpkir bajet aku terbang lagi..

aku nak mintak tologn korang...lar..

1. aper sebab utama power supply aku meletop?
nak keter over voltage aku raser aku tiap2 ari bukak lebih dari 6 jam..

2. ader efek kat aku nyer hardware yg len x?
aku tgk x der pun kesan terbakar ke aper2 ker kat mobo aku..

3. leh tak aku letak kat casing lamer aku?
aku ader casing lamer yg power supply dier max voltage 400 watt
aku tgk balik max voltage kat power supply yg meletup tue dier tulis 480 watt..
aku igt klu leh tukar aku nak tukar jer..

aku nyer spec cmnie..
P4 3.0G HT
1 G ddr2 ram
160Gig maxtor hd
ati radeon 9200 128mb
dvd rw samsung..

raser2 cukup tak utk 400 watt max voltage nyer poewr supply

4. lagi satu baper kener charge klu aku antar kedai..aku x nak bajet tinggi2..poaki..hehe..
tukar powers supply jer leh ker coz aku still nak pkai casing yg lamer..baper modal dier..

p/s: tol ker aku post kat topic nie?

Hello, power supply meletup? ade bunyi tak? ada bau hangit kan? ade nampak flame tak?

Kalau PSU meletup, maka ada kemungkinan hardware lain turut terjejas, tp cara nak confirmkan just test setiap satu hardware tu...

Byk sebab PSU burn.. dari sebab overvoltage, lifespan dah abes, atau ada cicak/semut mati kat dalam PSU...

just carik sebijik PSU dan test kat PC.. dah takde ape2 lg yg boleh dibuat kecuali test balik 1-1 hardware tu..

Good luck

ader2..bau hangit gak..

aku ader power supply lamer..dier nyer volt max 400..leh pasang ker?
klu leh aku nk test kat situ jer..

PSU lama ok lagi kan? Try la pasang dulu.. then troubleshoot.. kalo ikut spec pc patut ok.. tapi berapa +12v rating?, the best kalau dia ada at least 15A..

haah ok lagi...nanti aku tgk..aku kat luar nie....tgk bola...

yg aku tensen smpai skang adalah mengapa aku nyer psu leh lak nak meletup..aku x penah wat oc..x tmbah aper2 hardware..tiber2 melotop..

ibarat aku ditembak tanpa sebab..hehe..

ko ada pakai AVR tak? kalau tak memang kemungkinan besar terkena arus sesat. meletup banyak sebab, first, overvoltage sebab tak de avr, second pengudaraan, third tgh hardware sedia ada dlam pc ko, psu ko tu cukup ke nak tampung semua? kalau bukan true power, ni la masenyer tukar ke true power yang selaras ngan pc ko tu.

tq baok...aku telah pun dpt enggunakan balik aku cpu..aku pakai yg lamer..aku try sket2..lamer2 ok ar...

lagi satu....aku mau bertanyer pada wira4ce..baper ar rege sebijik avr tue?

tak pun kalo ko rajin, buka psu ko tu, mane la tau kot2 psu ko tu ade tamu tak di undang berkaki empat ke, akeke

aku jawab dari segi tkenikal ok?

punca utama dia ialah proc ko ialah 3GHZ......kombinasi hardware x sesuai telah berlaku......utk pengetahuan ko lagi Proc 3GHZ nih terkenal ngan HIGH PERFORMANCE dan agak top satu ketikan dahulu(berapa ribu ko beli pc tuh? macam banyak duit je )

FSB proc tuh berapa ? 800FSB atau 533FSB? cache L2? 512KB L2 atau 1MB L2?

proc ko tuh ada HT(Hyperthreading)......

tech HT tuh merupakan tech sebelum Dual core.......

so solution pada kes nih....

beli PSU baru......tapi kena amik paling minimum Icute Twin FAN 450WATT....harga rm 88 ......

jangan sesekali amik PSU yg rm 50 kerana ia aan berulang kembali BUT 2nd round ko akan perhati ia akan `makan` sekali mobo ko tuh.........so paham2 la kos dia berapa ek kira2 rm 350.........


sesiapa yg membeli Core 2 Duo E4xxx series atau intel pentium Dual core yg cpu sahaja rm 900 tuh.....yg murah2 tuh.....1sttttttttt thing sekali kerosakan dia ialah Xde power.......PSU buat hal.......kekadnang lepas waranti tamat jadik lagi ......

avr harga dia flexible, depend on bape power avr tu, aku pun tak ingat bape harga dia, dah lama aku beli, dulu beberapa puluh jerk

akuk pakai E4400 OCed 3.2GHz guna psu cap ayam, takde masalah running 24:7 doing upload download, gaming..

TS : kalo nak amik psu, amik la yg ok cket. takkan la yg 88 RM gak selepas kebabo yg berlaku kat cpu ko. member2 akuk la, ramai yg pakai AcBel PSU, so long takde agi akuk dgr masalah dari derang

avr tak mahal rm50-60 tgk pada jenama dan meter anolog atau digital.

Tahun lepas ada 1 komputer kat company aku kerja yang psunya meletup. Masalahnya ada satu plug tu rosak kat department lain. Komputer lain ok sebab pakai UPS. Cuma komputer itu saja tak bernasib baik sebab tak pakai UPS. Hardware yang rosak PSU, Motherboard dan Monitor. Kesimpulannya pakailah UPS atau AVR.


P/S: Aku cadangkan ko beli PSU yang harganya RM 300 ke atas. Baru puas hati.

Aku x syorkan iCute ni, better up ckit lg leh dpt Acbel E2 390W RM110..
Even 390W tp yang penting TruePower, iCute tuh TrueAyam je..

ni akuk tolong ko wat review cket k. ko pilih je PSU ko berkenan kat sini, kalo ko leh datang lowyat lagik murah akuk ase. certains of PSU

spec dia dah over 2 tahun......rasanya x berapa sesuai rassanya guna yg rm 300 keatas....

kalau akunyer spec sesuai pakai PSU yg mane?
spec PCku->intel Core 2 Duo E4500 2.2Ghz~2.9Ghz(OC),mobo EP35-DS3,2Gb Crucial Ballistix,160hdd hitachi SATA2+160hdd WD SATA2,Gigabyte 8600Gt 256mb ddr3 128bit...

to TS
kalau ko bukan kaki O.C, smua standard, cari je PSU dlm range harga rm100~200 dh cukup, klau dapat yg true power pun ok.

nak lebih stable, ambik AVR satu, harga dalam rm50~

kecuali mmg banyak duit, beli la PSU 550w true power yg hrga ~rm300

Betul.angkut je PSU harga lebih kurang 200 ke bawah...ambik la Cooler Master...

hehe..ok sumer..aku kasik angkat avr dulu ar..aku raser ader menatag ke aper2 ker..

coz muler2 aku dengar cam kipas aku bunyik cam pelik..pastu pop..innalillah..hehe..

BRO..400watt tu POWER die bukan VOLT..max volt die 230v camtu..kalau volt tinggi, meletup la PSU ko tu..kalau watt tinggi takpe.lagi byk hardware yg buleh support



dlm byk2 ayat ko tu yg aku BOLD tu jer yg aku setuju. yg lain sume tak tepat..memang ade betulnya..cume yg penting = kombinasi hardware tak sesuai..CPU power hunger tapi PSU tak padan.




ape kaitannya pulak??kalau die beli PSU yg 1000W pun buleh gune kat pc tu..sbb nanti dah upgrade ke Quad Core ker haper ke PSU still buleh pakai..PSU ni bukan cam hardware lain ~ tak compatible

tu MTBF dier dah smpi bro~
tu la maksud Janice Wei Lan

nak selamat, ko amik true power PSU...
ader function circuit breaker in case litar pintas
nak tambah selamat ko amik UPS atau paling cikai amiklah AVR...

barang2 komputer ni mahal2 belaka, jadi utk mengelakkan duit ko terbang lebih tinggi, x salah rasanya ko labur sikit utk keselamatan PC ko (dan mungkin jugak keselamatan umah ko kalau2 berlaku litar pintas, rumah pulak hangus)

tapi kekadang pekedai yg pasangkan....diorang nak kena jimat kos then nak save itu ini so dipakainya barang standard.......itu yg pc jadik x tentu hala.......

tuh bukan membazir ke namanya? beli utk bende yg x pasti? .....nak quad core duit jugak....

Tu la silap pekedai..patutnya pekedai la yg kene educate end user..cakap la PSU biase ni tak tahan..nak bagus amik yg "true power".. so at least customer yg buat pilihan..kalau pakai spec canggih2 pun bukan tak untung..same jerk.




ape yg membazir kalau beli PSU yg stable+reliable??sbb psu tu tahan lama..even kalau nak upgrade ke Quad Core sekali pun PSU tu dah support..Nak tambah HDD sampai 1-2 TB pun OK jerk..

pasal prob dia ialah PSU dia meletup.....then aku suggest rm 100++ punya pSU ko suggest rm 300++PSU .........padahal spec dia masyallah punya lama ......lagipun barang komputer nih sentiasa akan turun harga.......dan for the sure akan sentiasa cheap2 .....rm300++ tuh nilai dia besar woo......lagipun sekarnag istilah upgrade mana VAlid lagi.........sekarnag istilah BUY THE NEW ONE ..........

cube bace balik ayat aku kat atas tu..sejak bile pulak aku suggest die beli PSU yg rege RM300?? aku cume cakap, takde problem pun KALAU die nak beli PSU yg rege sampai RM300..tak membazir sbb PSU tu buleh pakai utk long term dan bukan macam hardware lain..

** turun harga??rasenya rege PSU ni takkan turun secepat hardware lain..cube banding rege PSU 450W 2 tahun lepas dgn sekarang...beza die ade sampai rm50?

aku kaalu dalam situasi dia (ada masalah pSU meletup-pernah kena pung) aku akan beli yg rm 100++ tuh je.....atleast komputer tuh leh beropearsi utk 2-3 tahun lagi sebelum dipencenkan... .......


***kalau beli PSU mahal2 padanan hardware kena cantik jugak.....baru leh utilize psu tuh bebetul...(psu tuh nampak hebat) kalau x duit rm 300 yg bayar psu tuh...rugi la.....

takde barang free kat muka bumi ni, even masuk tandas kena bayar 20 sen. kalo membazir ko g shopping then nak tetiba buang air, ko balik rumah ke..

bace leklok yang bro Sarge cakap tu maa, you don't get it ape yg dia nak sampaikan..

Ko ni lembab & x faham ke?
Maksud sarge, bli PSU mahal bagus utk long term, cuba pk 1 msa katakan TS nk buat rig baru yg power, so dia dh x perlu tukar PSU, sbb investment RM300 skrg ni leh guna utk generasi PC seterusnya..Ya TS leh je bli PSU RM1xx skrg ni, tp PSU RM1xx ni sure x stable nak handle spec PC yg powerful pd masa depan..

haaaaaaaa, ni la maksud bro Sarge, ko je x paham2 wahai Janin wei lam. akuk tambah cket agi, yg Hoodlums kate ni, betul, tp rig skrg TS guna 86GT, mgkin psu yg 1xx tu tak dapat nak support gc dia, kecuali TS amik PSU AcBel E2, ok la cket dia punya performance banding dgn yg standard nye

Kalau setakat nk buat kerja biasa.. pakai yang biasa pon boleh. aku punya PSU ni rega RM40 je.. Brand FRD Cap Ayam Serama (cap gambar orang berjabat tangan ). Dah pakai 3 tahun.. ok lagi. Aku ON dari pukul 9 pagi hingga 9 malam (12 jam) tiap2 hari kecuali cuti (jumaat) dan cuti raya

Kalau nk beli yang biasa.. pastikan anda menutup lubang angin kat PSU tu dengan jejaring besi/plastik.. kalau tak, lipas & cicak serta member2 dia akan buat rumah dan akan menyebabkan meletup la kalau short

Pasal aku rasa PSU ko meletup disebabkan oleh cicak. Cuba buka PSU tu.. selalunya dia ada bawah bord litar PSU tu.. mungkin lebih dari sekor

sama cam akuk cakap ni la kan. pandangan akuk n malayNUX, sama je, akekekeke. baek ko tgk, utk kepastian ape yg menyebabkan PSU ko rosak

nape perlu padanan hardware lain? sepatutnya yg terkurang perlu di lebihkan. yg lebih x perlu la dikurang kan coz bole d cukupkan penggunaannya pada masa akan dtg.

beli je psu yg stable, bia mahal sket, keselamatan hardware terjamin. nati2 klu nk tambah or tukar hdware cam gc ke, tambah hdd ke x perlu la kuar duit da untuk tuka psu power gak. betul x.

nih apa citer nih? aku tgk 1st post dia kata 9200 ATi 128MB ......bila masa dia kata ada 8600GT?

dia kata pakai DDR2 pastu pakai ATi 9200 mean ada agp slot....nampak sangat komputer pakai2 biasa....


berapa lama leh jamin?....berani jamin x kalau aku soh ko pasang satu set pastu pakai psu yg ko kata bagus tuh? ada berani?......

APAHAL KO NI BELAGAK SGT????
KO SENDIRI PAKAI PSU CAP AYAM N PAKAI 86GT MAIN GAME TUP2 MELETUP, X RETI2 NK AMIK PENGAJARAN KE?????

AKU X RESPEK LANGSUNG R TECH MACAM KO NI. ORG SUGGEST YG TERBAIK TAPI KO SUGGEST IKUT RASA KO JE. CUBA LA BELAJAR BG PENDAPAT YG TERBAIK BKN YG STAKAT CUKUP2 MKN.

BELAJAR JD PROFESSIONAL SKET. APA LA SALAH PAKAI BRG YG BERKUALITI.

KLU KO NK GAK PAKAI PSU TRUE AYAM KO TUH, PAKAI JE LA. JGN CUBA NK RACUN ORG LAIN YG DA CUBA BG PENDAPAT TERBAIK

XKAN LA SETIAP HRWARE PC TU D UPGRADE SERENTAK. KLU SEKARANG DA PAKAI PSU TRUE POWER OR STABLE, LAIN KALI LEH UPGRADE KT GC, PROC, MOBO X PERLU LA NK TUKA PSU LG DA. FAHAM???????

ooo, silap eh. ala, bende kecil ma. mane gc pom better go for PSU power nye, banding ngan ayam brand nye. kiterang sajes TS dapatkan PSU bagus tu utk keselamatan n puas ati TS gak. nnt kalo meletup g tak ke garu kepala si TS tu. ahaks

sekurangnya ko kena amik pengajaran dari rig ko yg dah meletup tu. jgn lak ko nak ajo org letupkan rig derang lak bro. akekeke. akuk sbnrnya masih kesian kan ko kerana rig yg da meletup tu. jgn smpai kiterang dgr berita lak ade yang rentung

aku punya cap ayam...20pin dalam manual xde tulis kalau masuk 20 pin dia meletup..mean salah pasang bukan salah psu tuh sendiri.......

ok bro jawab soalan aku.......kenapa PSU COoler master E380/E390watt aku x meletup? nih hari2 on nih hari2 main game........padahal psu icute aku 450watt? tapi 20pin..........PSU cooler master aku 24pin?

bro.......kerja aku hari2 repair pc selalu sangat kes konon kawan dia tunjuk pandai..........pandai pasang itu bagus ini bagus ini power tuh power tup2 tup pc yg dibuat tuh ada masalah kena rujuk kedai....kekadnag kesian aku tgk orang yg membeli tuh....nak cakap nanti gaduh ngan tukang pasang tuh kekadang tukang pasang tuh terdiri daripada anak kawan dia la anak makcik dia la......

terus terang aku cakap komponen komputer nih indah khabar dari rupa

Jangan gaduh. Kita bagi pendapat, terpulanglah pada tuan punya komputer pilih mana yang terbaik.

dont worry...sekali dah cukup....pasal dalam manual xde tulis akibat dia kalau 20 dimasukkan ke 24...

aduh...hal2 mcm nie pun nak gaduh ke...bincang la elok2......huh..

aku tanya ko balik. iCute ngan CM extreme power tu mana lagi stable psu?
walaupon CM xtreme power bkn true power tp lebih stabil berbanding psu yg cap ayam yg rege rm50

sbb tu penting stable psu ni. bkn main tgk watt je. x heran la psu ayam 500watt lgi murah dari true power or high stable psu yg just 390 watt.


x heran pon even kt tmpat aku ni da 5-6 org tech pc ni yg bile aku antar pc aku, diorg ckp "wooooo ini pc kena kasi hantar KL. ini canggih punya. x penah tgk ini ram, ini psu. x bole test nati meletup 1 blok bangunan black out."

bile aku tanya psu true power, haram diorg tatau pape. so, x heran pon klu tech pc x tau pasal hrware.

ada sorg dua je yg tau sbb diorg pon review gak sal hdware dari intenet.
yg belagak pandai mmg ramai. ckp kena amik psu 500 watt tp x kenal pon psu true power.

satu lagi soalan ada ke orang menghadapai msaalah x stabil bila pakai icute PSu 450 watt tuh? then aku nak maksud ko x stablil tuh.......aku kurang jelas....kurang stabil macam mana tuh?

yg soalan number 2 tuh......diorang sebenarnya MALAS nak buat pasal x mengutungkan diorang pastu membazir msaa diorang je....wat pe susah2 nak pergi habis masa 1 jam nak troubesott itu ini padahal bende baru ada waranti kenapa nak tech tuh buat?...

mcam aku pun kalau bende tuh bukan beli ngan aku DAN Tak menguntungkan aku dan merugikan msa aku mesti aku `halau` bende tuh keluar.......buat apa susah2? diorang bukan nak repair tapi nak duit...nak sedikit upah ......ko bagi upah x lengchai 86? jangan bagi rm 20 bagi la rm 50 ke rm 80 ke?

aku guna lebih 10 jam pon takde pape....
konyer pc tak cukup POWER kott..

takpe gaduh ....jgn bertumbuk dah..ekekeke....

bagi aku cap ayam... boleh pakai ..tapi pengunaan bukan utk heavy..
bertuah la sapa beli cap ayam tu leh on 24jam leh main game power...

yang branded ni mahal sebab kualiti dia... dan ada kala leh save letrik malah ada ciri2 keselamatan.

yang silapnyer.... atau kebiasan kita.... cth student... beli pc bugjet... guna mengalah server.... sebab tu kalau nasib tak baik meletup la pc tu.....

tapi ada kalanya beli pc high end.... pakai tak sampai 1 bulan pun leh meletop... tu sebabnya beza pc clone dan branded.... kalau betul hardware di pasang lebih stabil dari branded..
pc aku kat umah amd 2800+ still running ngan psu cap ayam.. tapi pernah meletup dulu disable arus letrik tak stabil kat umah.. masih beli psu cap ayam bersama AVR... kalau ikutkan hati nak je beli true power tu.. sebab arus letrik boleh kata stabil dari cap ayam ni....

* benda ni melibatkan nasib .. kualiti.. kemampuan.. pengunaan... takde ending kalau nak debat pun.... macam duk cerita org isap rokok ngan tak isap rokok la... org tak isap rokok mati gak kena sakit paru/jantung... tapi FAKTA dan hakikatnya.. PK PK lah.....

yerp..biasenya kalau org yg nak cari true power PSU ni mereka akan consider benda2 camtu..power efficiency, PFC dan etc. pasal over voltage protection tu memang hampir sume branded psu ade. yg tu tak payah risau

** yup..brg elektrik / elektronik ni memang bergantung kepada nasib..so kalau kita berani utk tanggung risiko dgn gune brg murah = silakan..PSU icute 4xx W twin fan penah hampir "makan" mobo aku..cek2 tak idup..tgk kat 20 pin connector kat mobo & psu hangit. mase tu aku cube pakai athlon XP 2000+, hdd 20gb, GF4 Ti 4200, dvd rom, SB Live, floppy dan beberapa kipas

dah test kat spec system yg lower sikit? like Celeron 800mhz?

sapa ada pakai PSU RS-enda 600watt ada kipas 12Cm?

hmm, ni la silap tech, tau nak duit je, ade ilmu taknak kongsi taknak guna. rosak je trus tuka baru tanpa fikir dulu ape masalah n cari solution utk setiap masalah. contoh terdekat kat bawah ni la

kepada tech2 komp, fikir balik ape motif korang buka kedai tu ya... kepada pengguna yg noob cam akuk, sebaiknya kite tak perlu support org2 yg sifat n sikapnya yg cenggini..

disini akuk sertakan beberapa sebab kenapa ramai user yang nak sgt pakai PSU2 yg power tu

Active PFC
The AC electric mains can be considered as having two types of power: active and reactive. Reactive power is generated in two cases: when the load current and the mains voltage are out of phase (that is, the load is inductive or capacitive) or when the load is non-linear. The PC power supply is a pronounced example of the second case. It will normally consume the mains current in short high impulses that coincide with the maximums of the mains voltage.

The problem is that while active power is fully transformed into useful work in the load, reactive power is not consumed at all. It is driven back into the mains. It is kind of wandering to and fro between the generator and the load, but it heats up the connecting wires as well as active power does. That's why reactive power must be got rid of.

The circuit called active PFC is the most efficient way to suppress reactive power. It is in fact an impulse transformer that is designed in such a way that its instantaneous consumed power is directly proportional to the instantaneous voltage in the mains. In other words, it is made linear on purpose and thus consumes active power only. The voltage from the output of the active PFC device goes right to the switching transformer of the power supply which used to be a reactive load due to its non-linearity. But now that it receives direct voltage, the non-linearity of the second transformer doesn't matter anymore because it is detached from the electric mains and cannot affect it.

The power factor is the measure of reactive power. It is the ratio of active power to the total of active and reactive power. It is about 0.65 with an ordinary PSU, but PSUs with active PFC have a power factor of 0.97-0.99. So, the active PFC device reduces reactive power almost to zero.

Power supply companies rather than the users that profit from active PFC because it reduces the computer's load on the electric mains by over one third. And this amounts to big numbers today when there is a PC standing on every office desk. From an ordinary user's point of view, active PFC makes no difference even when it comes to electricity bills. Home electricity supply meters measure only active power as yet. The manufacturers' claims that active PFC can in any way help your computer are nothing but marketing noise.

Active PFC is not an obligatory feature right now, but from the next year a power supply will have to have a power factor that can only be achieved with active PFC to pass the Energy Star certification (which is voluntary, though).

Passive PFC
Passive PFC is the simplest way to correct the power factor. It is a small choke connected in series with the power supply. Its inductance is smoothing out the pulsation of the current consumed by the PSU and is thus reducing the level of non-linearity. There is a very small effect from passive PFC - the power factor grows only from 0.65 to 0.7-0.75. But while implementing active PFC requires a deep redesign of the PSU's high-voltage circuitry, passive PFC can be easily added into any existing power supply.

Power supplies with passive PFC with eventually be replaced with active-PFC models.

High efficiency
Efficiency is the ratio of input power to output power. The higher the efficiency of a PSU is, the less heat it generates and the quieter its cooling can be made. Your electricity bills will be lower if the efficiency is high, too.

The current version of the ATX12V 2.2 standard limits the PSU efficiency from below: a minimum of 72% at typical load, 70% at full load and 65% at low load. Besides that, there are optional numbers (an efficiency of 80% at nominal load) and the voluntary certification program "80 Plus" which requires that the PSU has an efficiency of 80% and higher at loads from 20% to maximum. The new Energy Star certification program to come to effect in 2007 will have the same requirements as in the 80 Plus.

Minimum Efficiency Required
Minimum measured efficiency is required to be 70% at full and 72% at typical (~50%) load and 65% at light (~20%) load. The recommended guidance is 77% at full load, 80% at typical (50%) load and 75% at light (20%) load to provide direction for future requirements.

HIGH EFFICIENCY = LOWER HEAT = LOWER FAN SPEED = LOW NOICE

Low noise
This means that the speed of the PSU fan is varied depending on temperature or, less often, on load power. This speed management is currently implemented in all PSUs, even cheapest ones, so the question is about the quality of implementation. This quality can be viewed from three aspects: the quality of the employed fan, the minimum speed of the fan, and the speed adjustment range. For example, simplest power supplies may have speed management, but the speed is changed from 2500rpm at a 50W load to 2700rpm at a 350W load. It's like the speed doesn't change at all.

Respectable manufacturers implement the fan speed management system properly, but often play another marketing trick. The fan speed (or the noise level) they write into the power supply specs is measured at a temperature of 18�C as reported by a sensor inside the PSU. This thermal sensor is usually installed somewhere in the hottest part of the PSU, on the heatsink with diode packs, so you can only have that temperature in reality if you put your PSU in a refrigerator. Although no one keeps PSUs in a fridge, the specification still contains an unrealistically pretty number like a noise level of 16dBA (this is quieter than the background noise in a quiet room). In reality, the room temperature is usually within 20-25�C, and the temperature inside the PC case is closer to 30�C. Of course, you can't get 16dBA under such conditions.


Source : Lowyat.Net Forum

buat ape nak test dgn spec yg lebih rendah sbb PSU tu dah kong?

motif bukak kedai?.....motif bukak kedai nak dapat untung nak then sara hidup......nak bayar sewa nak bayar gaji pekerja .....dan membeli satu PC itu membawa keuntungan sebanyak rm 200++ pada sesebuah kedai atau seseorang......apabila komputer si A rosak (baru beli 3 bulan) then si A bawk ke kedai si B apa si B nak buat? bukan produk dia@bukan beli sama SI B tadi.......dan mmg beli barang2 cenggini ada waranti kan?
dah tau noob@x tau apa2 kena survey dulu kedai2 berdekatan kalau kedai tuh kerek sangat@caj mahal baru la buat@lari ke kedai lain macam kat lowyat ke hapa ke pasal dah dikira no choice .........

nih belum hapa2 dah la noob pastu pergi ke lowyat beli spec system mak aihh bapak power tapi rupa2nya x tahu apa2 pasal komputer.....system yg itu pun kedai kat lowyat tuh pasang dan suggest........pastu bila ada prob@hardware failure tergaru2 kepala pasal baru teringat lowyat tuh jauh@minyak naik + RM 5 parking

aku kat sini ada sorang budak melayu pergi lowyat beli PC baru.....nih spec dia

AMD Phenom X4 9750
2GB DDR2 Kingtson HYPER X memory
350GB SATA WESTERN D
Pioneer DVDRW+DL SATA
Cooler Master 550Watt PSU
ATI 4850 Graphic card 512MB PCI-E
Gigabyte motherboard
Cooler master chasis
total semua sekali rm 2600++(CPU SAHAJA)

customer nih sebenarnya pc dia kena kilat dan sepatutnya ada satu budak dari shah alam (spaa ek?) datang buat bende2 pc nih ..........sekali dah call 2 bulan x datang maka terjumpalah aku.....maka aku tahu la dia x tahu apa2 dia main beli je......

P:S rugi la budak shah alam tuh lepas customer macam nih.....